Talking to Strangers - a Vignette

“Young man! Young man!” 

It was 9am, and I was in a motel in the middle of nowhere New Mexico. I was exhausted and lost in my thoughts, but the woman’s voice – so insistent and unexpected – made me come to. What did she say? I thought. I looked around the room, and realized I was the only person there except for a single woman many tables away. She was un-mistakeably speaking to me. I looked at her more closely. She looked like a normal enough retiree, the kind of person I’m used to seeing anytime I stop at a motel or diner in the middle of nowhere. She wore long gray hair (neatly combed), had deep wrinkles across her forehead and neck (from many years in the sun), held her weight over a pair of broad shoulders, and was wearing a completely forgettable outfit that you might expect to see on the cover of some AAA or AARP magazine.  

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“Young man.” She said again, now more softly that she’d caught my eye. 

Before I could say a word, she got up, walked to me, and sat down in a chair right at the table next to me asked: “Would you help me with a little thing?”

I had a six-hour drive ahead of me to meet my high school friend Andrew outside of Tucson, and I was already running late. I wanted to get going, but figured this would only set me back a few seconds, so I said: “Of course.” 

“Oh, bless your heart. Thank you. You see, I need to set up an email account, and I just don’t even know.”

“Wait, what?”

“I just don’t understand technology. It’s complicated.”

I must have been staring at her blankly, dumbly. 

She went on: “I need to get home and feed my dogs.”

Excuse me? What did she want again, I tried to remember.

A second went by, she kept looking at me. I couldn’t see the connection.  

“Oh!” I said, eureka, “there’s a number for taxis by the front desk. I saw it there last night. You should go over there and call them.”

Problem solved! I thought.

“But I don’t have any money.”

“Do you have a credit card?”

“Oh yes – but you know how it is here. Cabs just take cash here. I don’t have any”

I thought about reaching into my wallet to give her some so I could get away.

“The woman at the desk told me I can call a cab with my phone, but I need an email, and well, you know, technology, this world is so complicated these days, I can’t figure it out at all. I can’t figure out email. So I don’t have one.”

“You don’t have one?”

I looked at her closely. A series of uncharitable thoughts flew through my mind. Was she homeless and looking for money? No, I looked at her clothes. They were clean, ready for that AARP shoot. I looked at her teeth -- all intact. I smelled for signs of alcohol. None. I looked into her eyes – they didn’t look dilated. 

Maybe she’s just a clueless old woman, I thought. But how do you survive today without an email address? She must really need help. “Can I see your phone?” I asked. She handed me her Android. 

I opened up the browser “Let’s try to google it together.” I suggested. 

“What’s that?”

I looked at her again. Is she joking?

I said out loud as I typed it into Google, “How -- do – you -- set up – an – email --  account,” She didn’t seem particularly interested despite my live narration of my internet actions. “Click the top link.” “This is Gmail.” “Follow the link to ‘set-up an account.’” 

I finally got her to a page where she had to put in her personal information. “I think you’ve got it from here.” I said cheerily.

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I handed the phone back to her and tried again to finish my breakfast. I was relieved when I saw her typing and thought perhaps the conversation was nearing an end, but a moment later I heard her huffing: “Why does it want to know my age?”

“It’s okay” I assured her. “It just wants to know you aren’t a minor. You can put in something fake if you want, but only if you’ll remember it.” She took the phone back. I was shocked to see input a date that suggested she was in her late 50s.

A moment later more huffing: “It says my password won’t work! Can you do it for me?” 

I looked over her shoulder and saw her name was “Linda”, and that Google wanted her to make a more complicated password. 

“Just type it in again, and add some numbers on the end.” I suggested.

“Oh I can’t think of anything complicated.” She signed loudly as if home from a long day.

“Maybe put your dog’s names plus a number?” I suggested

“Oh, thank you! Bless your heart.”

I went back to my waffle. 

A moment passed, she was still staring at the screen, then I saw her pressing the screen over and over: “It won’t let me confirm my password!”

I looked over her shoulder. “Maybe you typed it in wrong the second time.”

“The second time?”

Instead of entering her password a second time, she was pressing place where she being prompted to “confirm password” over and over. 

“Um… why don’t you try typing your password in there.” 

“Oh my! Sometimes I think I’m just not meant for this world.” she sighed.

When the confirmation page loaded, she yipped. “Oh! It worked! I have an email now! Thank you! I can get home now.”

“Okay, well now you should be set. Just go ahead and order your uber.” I waved as if to signal, good luck, I’m done here. I tried, again, to turn my full attention back to my half eaten, and increasingly cold waffle.

“How do I do that?” she asked the top of my head. 

I signed, pushed away my waffle and grabbed the phone back. Of course, there was no Uber App on her phone. How had she known she needed an email? I wondered. But I didn’t care. I just wanted to see this thing through now. I went her app store and tried to download it, but when I did I saw it required her to first log in to her google account. 

I handed the phone back to her and said, “Almost there! Just need to re-input your username and password that we just created”

She looked at me, and back at the phone, “Oh no, I don’t know if I remember!”

Are you freaking kidding me? I wanted to yell. But instead, I kept my cool, and said in my most zen like voice: “Hmm, remember it’s your dog’s name?”

“Oh yes!” she called out. But despite repeated attempts to type in her dog’s name. It didn’t work. 

I grabbed the phone back and began the process to recover her password. 

“Can I ask you a question.” She suddenly asked.

 “Umm… sure…” 

She looked down at my hand, and pointed to a dark raised dot on the crease between my right thumb and pointer finger. “How did you get that?”

I looked. The truth was I’d seen it for the first time after I’d woken up while camping in the desert two nights before. I had no idea how it got there. “I don’t know actually.” 

She looked at me conspiratorially

“Would you think I was strange if I told you something?” 

Too late… I thought. 

“I got them once too! And I also had no idea where I got them from. You and I are so alike.”

Wait, what?

“It was a few years ago, when I was still with my ex-husband. He was in the air force. Lots of weird things happen with the air force here in New Meixco, you know...” she trailed off. “Well, one day, I was out in my garden in the middle of the day, and then next thing I knew I was inside and it was dark. I don’t know how. And it was at least 4 hours later. That time was just gone. I wasn’t drinking or anything. It was just like I time traveled. So, I went to the bathroom, and I looked in the mirror and I had those same black dots on me just where yours is!” 

What is the right and polite thing to say here, I wondered. 

While I was contemplating that, she went on: “So, I went to my reiki guru, and you know what she told me?”

“No…?”

“Aliens!”

“Right… that makes sense.” 

“I know! Right? There’s a lot of weird things out here the desert.”

“You don’t say…”

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Once we were armed with her new username and password, I went to download Uber, only to discover the internet signal was so, so slow that I soon realized there was going to be no quick escape 

My waffle was now most definitely cold. Do I still eat it I wondered? Should I just throw it away? 

“Oh my goodness. Where are my manners?” ‘Linda’ jumped in: “I never introduced myself. I’m Dionne.”

Wait, what? I wanted to say. I gave her my hand and may have mumbled: “good to meet you.”

She went on: “Who are you? Where are you from?”

Should I answer those questions? I wondered. But something in my Midwest upbringing compelled me forward, and before I knew it I was stammering out, quietly, almost in a whisper: “Tim … from Minnesota.” 

“Oh my goodness!” she excitedly yelped, seemingly oblivious to my body language. “I once dated the quarterback of the Minnesota Vikings when I lived in San Antonio!”

I looked at the phone – Uber was less than 10% downloaded.

“It was a long time ago, when Red McCombs owned the team and so the players used to come down and visit Texas all the time. I didn’t know he was the quarterback of course.”

I probably cocked my head. I actually knew that was true, and it was surprisingly specific. Was she telling the truth?

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“He was a gentleman.”

I couldn’t help myself: “Hmm, that’s not a word I think of that often when I think about professional football players. But I guess you never really know what people are like from afar...”

“I know, but he wasn’t like that. He was so handsome and kind. I worked in a nice restaurant then. But this was so long ago, back when I was beautiful. Like my daughter looks now.

“He kept coming back to my restaurant. Never pushy or handsy, but we used to talk all the time. We never even kissed or anything. One day, the other girls pulled me aside and said, ‘Do you even know he is? How come he likes you when you don’t even care about sports! He’s a star.’ But of course, I didn’t know who he was. Actually, when I found it out, that made me scared.” 

“Scared?”

“Next time I saw him, I asked him straight up, ‘Do you have a wife?’ And he didn’t deny it. He was real calm, and just said ‘yes.’

“Oh no!” I imagined what it must have been like for her. “Men... So, he just wanted a second girlfriend while he was away?”

“No. He told me he wanted to be with me not her.”

I almost choked, wait, what? I had so many questions I wanted to ask, but I held my tongue.

She went on: “I told him I wasn’t interested. But he didn’t give up. He came back, with a dozen roses and a credit card. I told him I didn’t want anything. I threw the card at him.” 

I looked at her silently, imagining her 30 years ago, the excitement of the attention, the dreams she must have had, the way they’d been pulled away from her. How much did that gesture mean to her now? When she thought of him, what did she first see? When she thought of his face, was it the look of when he wooed her or when she threw the card away?  

“He got that card off the ground and tried to put it in my hand. He told me to keep it. I told him to leave. He said I didn’t owe him anything. Just keep it.” 

“I didn’t want his money.” 

She trailed off into thought. I’d forgotten I was supposed to be installing her Uber.

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Many, many minutes later – when we’d finally got her app up and running, after I’d input her credit card information and found the card contained a third name, neither Linda or Dionne, I asked her to tell me the address of where she wanted to go.

“Oh, can’t I just tell the driver?” she asked.

“No, you need to input it here. Maybe you want to put in your home address?”

“Just have them take me downtown.”

I wanted to ask about her dogs, but decided better not.

“Where downtown? I need an address.”

“Oh, I don’t know. Anywhere on Main Street.”

“I need an intersection at least… please”

“Well there’s an artist gallery there I really like.”

And so it went…

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When I finally got called the Uber from her phone, and got her to the lobby door, it was almost 10am. I never got to finish that waffle.

As we stood there, I watched two obviously homeless men walk through the parking lot, their clothes full of holes, their hair turning to dreads, their look wild. I looked back at Linda, or Dionne, or whoever she might be in her neat clothes and combed hair. The world is strange I thought.

It was then that I also first noticed she didn’t have anything with her except her purse. No suitcases, no toiletries. I almost laughed. Why was she at the motel in the middle of nowhere? How did she look so clean and put together without any things to get ready in the morning? How had she even gotten there in the first place? What was her name, actually? Who was this woman!?

When the driver arrived in a Toyota Camry, I looked at the plates and told her it was her ride. She turned, looked back at me, and gave me a smile. “Goodbye, Tim from Minnesota. I need a new phone. Thank you.” She gave me a hug, and got in the car. 

As she closed the door, I saw her lean toward the driver and heard her say:

“Hello young man! Can I ask you something?” 

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Hearing Nothing

I saw the body flying through the air. I didn’t realize it was a body at first. I didn’t know what it was. It all happened so fast. But as it fell, I saw clearly it was a man. And I saw his back, then the head, hit pavement. Bodies aren’t supposed to make that sound. I knew immediately, even before I saw the pool of blood, he was dead.

That night, even before I went to sleep, I saw the man – I saw his clothes, the tattoos on his arms, his face. In my dreams it was there again. Who was he? Why was he there? Why didn’t the driver on the other side of the road stop before he hit him?

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I had to drive south the next morning. The first hour was pouring rain. I clenched the steering wheel so hard my forearms hurt. I-35 in Texas felt like a nightmare. No shoulders. Construction everywhere. Electronic flashing signs every few miles: “Don’t be a statistic. Deaths on Texas roads this year: 2,871.” Thanks for the real time update Texas - Fuck you. Nothing makes people safer than reminding them to be fearful.

I called my friend who’d seen it too. She told me she’d wept that morning when she got into her car.

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~~~

It’s been two weeks since I saw that unknown man die. In time, I stopped seeing the body. Often, I forget it happened. I wonder, is it because I never saw him alive? Is it because I only saw it all through my windshield? Or perhaps it’s because I’ve stayed so busy.

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Since, I’ve spent a lot of time with some of my dearest friends. I’ve gotten far away from the highways deep into the Chihuahuan Desert, Chisos Mountains, and the Guadeloupe Range. I’ve been with people nonstop. I’ve stayed up into the night to photograph the moon rise over the desert. I’ve spent full days climbing arid peaks. I’ve had so many of the things that life has to offer, solitude and silence being two key exceptions. 

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But I’m alone again. And this morning I found myself buried 750 feet below the New Mexico desert in the Carlsbad Caverns National Park.

Carlsbad is a strange place for North America’s largest accessible cave system. There is nothing above the ground that would indicate to a non-scientific eye that there should be countless miles of passageways below. From above, the top of the butte gently swells and rolls to the north and west. The ground seems more than solid underfoot. There are not legions of dark holes into which one might climb. To the east and south an immense vista of flatness stretches to the horizon -- dirt, rubble, cholla, yucca, other cacti, and a solitary highway as far as the eye can see. If you squint you can see the fires coming from the fracking wells. Other truths lie on the landscape too - invisible to the human eye. They say we used to test nuclear bombs just 30 miles from here. Does radiation still cling unseen to the rocks in the parks?

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But, I didn’t come here for what’s above the surface. It’s that huge fissure in the earth that drew me. And as I approached it, my eyes looked down into the hole - switchbacks that disappeared into the below.

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As I descended, I wondered what madness possessed the first explorers more than 100 years ago, before walkie talkies, electric lights, and automatic pulleys to climb miles and miles into unknown, unlit chambers below the earth. Looking at the rock, its grade, its wetness, its shape – I imagined what it’d be like climb before there were trails. How easy it must have been to fall to places unseen, how easy to become lost. And if you did – what horrors then? What would it be like to starve to death in the pitch black? 

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I walked briskly until I’d gone so far down I could no longer see any of the natural light above. I was not afraid. I wanted to be still. Absolutely still. There was no sound, save the drip, drip, drip of unseen water into unseen pools. 

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There were faint noises further up toward the entrance of the cave. Probably the six school buses of children I saw on my drive in. Better keep moving. But I couldn’t go fast. I took a step, then stopped, lingering to look at the ornate details, like filigree on the columns of stalagmites that stretched from the cave’s ceiling to its floor. Then I’d take another step only to linger more before a vein of sparkling calcite. I forgot about hurrying. 

They began to catch up. I expected a horde, but instead at first I saw only a teacher and 10 middle school aged girls. Further back, I could hear more of them. But this first group was quiet-ish. When they spoke and giggled, they did so in respectful, hushed whispers. I let them pass. But a few minutes later I caught up, and passed them again. 

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I wondered if I should rush ahead to stay ahead of the noise. I was so enjoying the stillness before they came. It nourished me in ways I didn’t understand. I wanted more. I so dreaded the others who I knew followed behind them. 

I tried this for a while - trying to rush toward stillness. 

But then I paused. A huge cavern had opened up before me. It looked as though the ceiling were a hundred feet above my head. I set up my tripod. I fiddled with the settings.

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I heard them before I saw them. It wasn’t words, but one voice, whimpering. I imagined what the girl must be feeling as she climbed ever deeper into the earth, away from the surface and the natural light. I heard her sniffle. I turned, and watched them come toward me. I saw the crying girl. One of her classmates was holding her hand, a second one had her in a loose embrace. 

“It’ll be okay, Justice” one said. “Don’t cry,” said a second.

As they walked by me, other girls pressed close too. The whole group stopped, and surrounded the girl in a large embrace.  

They made loving sounds. A few girls began to giggle, one called out: “Oh Justice - there’s nothing to cry about!” Another laughing: “We can’t take you anywhere!” A third: “Oh Justice, we love you.” 

The teacher wordlessly caught my eye, and smiled, her face saying: “Do you see? How could I not be happy in a world that has this?”

They walked on, disappearing around a corner, echoes of loving whispers and warm laughter still reaching back to me from the darkness. 

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But my reverie was short lived. At first it was a titter, then an indistinct din, a cacophony of many voices echoing through the chamber – unmistakably teenage boys. As they got closer I could hear specific conversations - perhaps something about Batman, football, definitely girls, a few pretend farts, machismo claims about their lack of fear - shushing every now and then as well.

I wondered why couldn’t they be quiet, like the others? Why don’t the teachers control them? Why it so hard for so many people to be quiet? Is it play, or a deflection for their fears? If so, of what? Of monsters in the dark? Of silence? Does the darkness, and these depths, make them think of dying, or the dead? Or perhaps, is it the monsters lurking in their minds, images that only surface when no one speaks, that they are trying to keep at bay behind their idle chatter?

Of course now it’s so obvious - the questions were as much directed at me as them. But in that moment, I didn’t see that yet.

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Groups of 10 began to pass me one by one. I tried to ignore them, to focus on my photography. But the path was too narrow. Kids kept bumping into my tripod. I gave up and walked slowly, close to edge, so they could pass. How long would this go on? Six school buses hold a lot of noise and hormones.

I tried to enjoy the majesty of the caves, but I saw nothing, my mouth may not have moved, but my mind was racing as I walked up. First it was consumed with the boys, then the impeachment hearing, later other frustrations happening above the surface. I saw a sign and stopped to read it. It said that in the 1920s the Caverns first became a national attraction. Then, there were no elevators or paved paths. Tours used to take 5 hours but today they’ve cut the time in half! (Yes, there was an exclamation point on the sign). Is that a good thing? I wondered.

I kept walking toward the great room. Suddenly I realized I was alone. All of them must have passed. It was silent again. I hadn’t even noticed. How long had it been still? This was very thing I’d said I wanted to run to – what took me so long to notice it’d arrived?

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I stood motionless and held my breath. I wanted to hear nothing. But instead of nothing I heard the blood pulsing through my veins.

I breathed again, and found my eyes had filled with tears. My throat tighten. It was hard to breathe deeply. For the first time in a long time. I saw the body. Yes, that had happened. It wasn’t a dream.

Even as I saw him, I felt held by caves and within the silence. Here I’d found a place both contained and also more expansive than I could imagine.

I realized what the whimpering girl must have known - that there was 750 feet of heavy rock above my head and miles trail I’d have to climb to get back to the surface. If the walls shook I would certainly die. Still I did not feel afraid.

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I’m not sure how long I sat there. I know many other people walked by. The children looped back at one point but it was as if they were far away. I knew they were there but I didn’t hear their words anymore.

Slowly I found both the sadness and the image of the man began to fade from my mind, in its place I found a chasm had opened up inside me, and I felt the cave all around rushing it.

The silence said: do not be afraid, you are alive, give thanks.

Looking within, I found the darkness had begun to take shape and color — deep reservoirs of gratitude abounding where sadness and resentment had prevailed only a moment before.

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I felt gratitude for the absurdity of being able to stand 750 feet below the earth. Gratitude that I’m a citizen of a country which chose to preserve so many of its most beautiful places before I was born. Gratitude for the other worldly beauty of the caves. Gratitude for my health and the ability to walk through them on my own legs. Gratitude to learn from the noise of those boys – and realize how my mind is often just as loud. Gratitude to witness the tenderness of those girls for their friend. Gratitude to be free and able to go on this journey. Gratitude for the strangers who I’ve met on this journey, many of whom have changed my life. Gratitude for the friends and family who’ve supported me when I was afraid. And too, gratitude for the air in my lungs and the blood still pumping through my veins.

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Hearing nothing in the cave but the beating of my heart, I felt so fiercely the truth of my pulse. There is always much to mourn; but as long as I breathe, I must also give thanks.

It is a most strange, unfair, beautiful, and miraculous thing to be alive.

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